Doolin: A Little Place with Big Heart
The ride to Doolin was one of the most enjoyable I’ve had yet. It was more than just Conor Pass, my (mis)adventure over the ferry ride or deciding whether or not I had time for the Cliffs of Moher. It was frame of mind that made the day so pleasant too. Ok…if you check out my back stories you’ll know my frame of mind was a little on the fretful side for a short while, but overall peaceful.
When I arrived in Doolin I was struck by how small it was. It seemed like such a sleepy little village compared to the hustle and bustle of Dingle! I was due for some sleepy village time so I made my way to the Doolin Hotel. Unfortunately, they had no record of my reservation. Ummmm it’s the bank holiday so if I’m not staying HERE, I’m not staying ANYWHERE! My frame of mind went from peaceful to…well…the opposite of peaceful in 3.7 seconds.
I had the gal at the front desk call Paul at Celtic Rider for me and he advised my reservation had been changed. He’d provided me with an updated itinerary, but I already had my itinerary in a neat little organizer so I left his (updated) version at their office. I missed the “updated” part of his dialogue oh so many days ago when I first picked up the bike. Anyway, ever patient man that he is, Paul told me I was at the Ironview Hotel. OK. cool.
After hanging up I asked the gal for directions. She pulled up Google maps and told me to turn left, go left up the hill, left at the top and it would be right there. On my left. Easy, right? Well I learned a few things in my first 20 minutes in Doolin.
- I learned that not all people know how to read a map. For example, if it looks like a left on Google maps, but you don’t know which direction you’re facing, it’s actually a right.
- I learned that it is entirely a fluke accident when your map reader confuses left from right repeatedly and you actually DO end up at a bed and breakfast.
- I learned that when you are a biker and you don’t take your helmet off when you knock on the door of the (wrong) B&B and an elderly lady answers, there is a good possibility that she’ll think you’re a bad guy (or bad gal) and will actually shoo you off the door step.
- I learned if you are persistent, albeit from a safe distance off the door step, in your plea for help there may be a kid hanging in back of paranoid old ladies with an iPhone to give you directions after paranoid old ladies slam the door.
- I learned, perhaps THE most invaluable piece of information ever, that when a Canadian hears an Irish person say “Ironview” over the phone without the advantage of seeing the speaker’s lips at the same time, the Canadian won’t know that word is spelled “Aran View”.
The elderly lady at the front desk of the ARAN View is not at all afraid of my bikerness (’cause I’m so not scary!) and offers to call me a cab to get back into town. She did, however, tsk tsk me as I didn’t have a lot of time; food would not be available past 8:00 pm in town and it was now about 7:30. I assured her I’d be down in 15 minutes.
My kit virtually exploded as I tore through it digging out clean clothes only to discover I left my cosmetics back at Pax House in Dingle!!! Now I’m not a super fancy kind of girl, but after washing the road grime from my face, it would have been nice to girl-ify myself just a little! Sporting a fresh face and pony tail, I bounce down the steps, eager to jet off in a cab towards town so I can quell the nausea stemming from my growing hunger.
“Oh! You’re quick!” remarks the elderly front desk clerk.
“Yup! How long until my cab is here?”
“Oh, I haven’t called yet dear. Did you still want to go?”
“Um, yes please?!” Argh! I thought we’d already settled this point before I madly tore apart my bags minutes before.
I’m pretty hangry by this time, but it’s not Dave’s fault that my (probably) five minute wait felt like hours, so I smile and ask how his night is. He’s just started his shift so he’s in fine spirits and even though I’ve asked sweetly (and hopefully not at all desperately) for food, he decides to take me on a bit of a tour first. Maybe I should have pushed the desperation bit.
As he points out all the places that do NOT have food, but great craic, I wonder if he notices my head spinning around on my shoulders or the fire shooting out my eyeballs. Now Dave is a super sweet guy, but I’m telling you in my serious state of food deprivation I find myself dabbing the corner of my mouth wondering what his spleen might taste like.
We finally arrive at a food place and I have the door open before he can suggest yet another tour. Before I leave he fishes out his business card and instructs me to have the bartender call when I’m ready to go home and he’ll see to my safe return to my hotel.
Awwwee! Thanks Dave!
I REALLY need to work on having food handy so I don’t miss out on any more great people moments due to my hanger.

I’ve had “meat on a stick” and sticks and boards are not SO different…I guess…
After wolfing down my bunless burger served on a piece of wood while I was sandwiched between revelers as I stood and ate at the bar, I set out to see what else Doolin had in store for me.
And it had a LOT!
- Swiss Family Robinson
- Beautiful People
- Gracious Famous Guy
- Fellow Bikers
I’ll share links to these stories as I write them, so please be sure to check back! I’ll even have a picture or two and a video so it’s worth the wait :)
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