Solo Motorcycle Tour of Ireland: Doolin to Westport

I left Doolin and headed back to the Cliffs of Moher. I’d missed them on the way in to Doolin the night before, so I turned back the next morning to see what all the fuss was about.

Not sure if it was because I faced yet another meal alone, or the fact that I’d been looking at pictures of home, but I was feeling a bit…low…that morning. I watched the steam from mugs of piping hot coffee rise and mingle with the loving gaze between a couple at the table across the room and longed for a hug from…well…just about anyone really! I was getting pretty comfortable with my own company, but it had been a long time since embracing my family at the Edmonton airport almost two weeks ago! After loading my gear I noticed the couple had moved outside with their coffee so I sauntered over to say hello and wondered what they’d say if I asked for a hug. Back in Killarney I considered getting a t-shirt done up with “I’m far from home and need a hug“. It would have come in handy right about now!

We chatted about economies, history, and the oil and gas industry. We chatted for close to an hour over coffee before we said our goodbyes and I plugged the Cliffs into my GPS and set off. You know Gretta and I have had our differences, but that morning gave me reason to give serious thought to ending our rocky relationship for good. I thought she was taking me back the way I’d arrived the night before, but nope. The stealth (read as “winding-road-of-firey-crashes”) route was on her agenda.

She took me up the narrowest, scariest road I’ve been on YET! I was squeezed way over next to nothing but a crumbling cliff edge marked with a single fence wire on a very steep incline. A car headed down the hill towards me and a pedestrian strolled uphill ahead of me. I heard stones tumble down the cliff beneath my back tire as I hollered out repeatedly, “I can’t stop! Get out of my way!”

“Holy crap balls Batman!” I thought, “this is it for me!”

The pedestrian leapt out of the way, the car squeaked by, and I lived another day.

After sweet talking my way out of paying for parking again (I actually paid the night before, but didn’t go up), and with feet as heavy as my heart, I trudged up the many steps to see the Cliffs. I took some photos and even managed a selfie and a conversation with a fellow from France. My French sucks and his English wasn’t much better, but we tried :)

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As I packed up my camera three bikers also on BMWs pulled in. The lead guy called out to me and asked if it was worth it. I told him I was glad I’d seen it; wouldn’t always wonder what the Cliffs were all about now. They pulled in next to me. Ruben decided to hang back and visit while his two buddies hauled out cameras and headed up to see the Cliffs.

Ruben and I chatted about what brought each of us to Ireland on motorbikes and what awaited us at home. He’s from Belgium and was on a mad-dash kind of whirlwind tour of Ireland over the course of about 4-5 days. I told him my trip was 19 days on this solo adventure and I was coming up on two weeks. He was astounded; “That’s too many days. You’re riding with us today. You shouldn’t be alone that long on a motorbike!” Finally someone who GOT it! When you’re travelling on a bike, you’re alone. When you’re travelling ALONE on a bike…you’re completely and utterly alone!

All hugged up and still chatting with Ruben at the base of the Cliffs of Moher.

When I repacked my camera after sharing some photos with him I answered his questions about this, that, and the other. At one point I’d mentioned how much I missed my kids. He rose off the stone wall upon which he’d been perched and I figured he decided to see the Cliffs after all. With my eyes welling up I could almost hear “crazy lady” alarm bells screaming from his ears and I assumed he was bugging out before my tears over flowed. Instead, he strode up to me, closed my top case, put his arms around me and just hugged me.

And it wasn’t even weird! 

I lowered my head onto his shoulder and just let his humanity and warmth wash over me.

He didn’t let go until I raised my head and laughed. God how I needed that! Again he insisted I ride with them, so when his buddies returned we set out together.

Well holy macaroni Batman! We were about 3.no minutes into our ride from the Cliffs when I realized I had no business trying to keep up with these guys! They ride hard and they ride fast. I’m a cautious rider (remember my first few minutes on the road today?) and I imagined how annoyed Ruben must have been with me! He owns a motorcycle rental company in Belgium so he rides for a living. I can barely chew gum and ride (just kidding, I can TOTALLY do that), so when he shared pics of me he’d taken on the road, I was duly impressed!

There I am – just a little spot on the road!

How Ruben must have chuckled over my cautious riding!

Anyway, after about 30 minutes or so I figured I’d put him out of his misery and hauled off to let him know I just didn’t feel comfortable trying to push to keep up with them. He tweaked my nose, said goodbye and we rode off in opposite directions.

It was kind of bittersweet to say goodbye; I really loved having the company for that short while, but I was REALLY glad to not have to feel obligated to ride outside my skill level too. I mean c’mere! This guy owns a bike touring company! A) He likely was ok with my ability BECAUSE he’s seen all levels, but B) They were on a “hollerday”, so me slowing them down was pr’olly not a bonus. Anyway, I Googled him and after checking out his website at http://www.motoduro.com/ I soooo wanna go there!

Maybe Belgium will be my NEXT motorbike adventure ;)